Day 10 - Tuesday 20th May 2024
What a great day today was! Sarah, in particular, was somewhat nervous about the hills, but we both had a blast.
The sun shone all day and the scenery, once we’d left busy Dumferline behind, was phenomenal. No wind and the road surface was much smoother than yesterday with far fewer potholes. And the colours! Bright yellow gorse in abundance, sparkly blue Loch Leven in the distance and all tones of green. So much to distract us from the climbs!
Not the most auspicious start as the garmin took us an extra 4km on a circuitous route to the Forth Road Bridge. It’s the middle of the three bridges crossing the Firth of Forth and only buses, bikes and pedestrians are allowed to use it. Luckily there was minimal wind so no issue with staying upright and glorious views all around in the morning sun.
After Dumferline there was a steady climb over the gorgeous Cleish Hills and then a fabulous smooth descent. We stopped for a coffee in Kinross which was a thriving little place with interesting independent shops and cafes. Lots of cyclists around.
Day 10 - Cont'd...
We continued onto Perth where we stopped for lunch. Impressive little city - would like to explore it properly another time. Stopped at a lovely cafe called Rascals with the friendliest owner, Dodie.
The city is built along the River Tay and there was a great shared used path along it, with a golf course right in the middle. We then swapped the Tay for the River Almond for a bit. As we were having such a great day and didn’t feel in a rush to get to Pitlochry, we stopped for a third time in an equally lovely town Dunkeld for a cup of tea.
Afterwards, we had to follow parallel to the very busy A9 for a short time, but the cycle path took us off into woodland so it was less painful than it looked on the map.
A couple of last sharp hills and we soon found ourselves in Pitlochry which is a very touristy place, full of wholesome hillwalking types and outdoor shops. We had excellent fish and chips and retired early again.
Day 10 - Tuesday 20th May 2024
Tomorrow evening Marco and Jane join us in Aviemore to cycle the last three days with us. Sounds like they’re bringing some rubbish weather with them too unfortunately. However tomorrow morning should be dry, at least.
It’s also our shortest day (96km) so we’ll have breakfast here and head off afterwards. Which means a lie in till 6.45 which is a bit of a luxury! Once we’re 25 miles in, we’re officially in the Highlands and I don’t think we’ll pass many places to stop so will need snacks.
There’s a steady uphill for 20 miles through the Pass of Drumochter which is the highest point of the whole trip - 456m. From there, we’ve got a good long descent though.
Looking forward to getting more remote and seeing more of the gorgeous Scottish countryside.
Day 9 - Monday 20th May 2024
Last night was our best sleep so far and we were seen on our way with an excellent breakfast (plus a packed bagel and croissant for mid-morning snacks as there wasn’t much on our route today).
The first 12 miles or so was an uneventful climb out of Moffat. Nothing steep but the road surface was pretty rubbish and views uninspiring as we followed alongside the busy A74.
We then turned off to go through Crawford, one of the most haunted villages in Scotland. Apparently you can find an inn keeper’s daughter, a five year old girl, a coachman, and a posse of Roman legionnaires marching up the road (impressive seeing as they allegedly have nothing below their knees). We didn’t see any such ghouls, but had no desire to stop there and whizzed on through.
Day 9 - Monday 20th May 2024
The road remained pretty uninspiring for miles - A roads (albeit not very busy ones) with a headwind felt a let down after the many amazing single path tracks we’ve had.
We could have chosen to go west (towards Glasgow) rather than east (to Edinburgh) which would have been more scenic but added an extra 44 miles and 900m of ascent and we’re not total masochists!
The only stop en route was a bakery in the village of Carnwath just over half way. Sarah went for a sausage roll and Mills had a steak pie. We then continued to ascend gently amongst wind turbines in somewhat desolate moorland (fortunately the wind had dropped but the sun had disappeared and it was a bit chillier). Then, finally, a long descent.
Day 9 - Monday 20th May 2024
There was a lovely woodland trail for a bit - the Almondell and Calderwood Country Park - and then it became more urban. Lots of Ryan Air flights descending over our heads into Edinburgh airport. There were some good cycle paths so we avoided the worst of the busy roads and before long got a glimpse of the Forth Bridge (the old, cantilevered one) and the newer Forth Road Bridge, which we will be crossing tomorrow (reserved for public transport, pedestrians and bikes only now).
South Queensferry is really pretty and we’re staying right under the Forth Bridge with trains rumbling overhead.
Day 9 - Done!
As we got in for 3pm (a record), we showered and put everything on to charge before enjoying a leisurely pint in the sunshine, followed by a wander and then a very early supper.
Managed to be in bed for about 7.15pm. What party animals we are. Tomorrow looks hilly. There’s a big one, Cleish Hills which we should summit at around 15 miles in. That’s the worst of it but there’s a fair bit of up and down over the remainder. We plan to have lunch at Perth, just over half way, if we find a café on the outskirts. Tomorrow night: Pitlochry.
Day 8 - Sunday 19th May 2024
What a cracker today was. We both slept really well and enjoyed the extra hour in bed, treating ourselves to a 6.45am alarm. It is Sunday after all! Got the bikes all set up and had a substantial breakfast before getting on the road for 8am.
There was a gradual hill out of Penrith, but compared to yesterday, it caused no issues. Then we had a fabulous downhill all the way to Carlisle. Had our first road closure to contend with and were taken under the wing by a chap on his road bike who insisted we follow him while he showed us the diversion. He was swift so we got a bit of a sweat on trying to keep up whilst acting nonchalantly as if we always averaged upwards of 25kph.
The route through Carlisle was great and we passed some beautiful houses. Soon out the other side heading towards Gretna. Much excitement from Mills when we passed Metal Bridge and its Inn, which was the evening stop off point for her family trips up to Cumbria back in the late 80s. She had a lovely time reminiscing about its scampi whilst Sarah supportively nodded, although declared the bridge didn’t look very metallic.
Day 8 - Cont'd...
Next stop Scotland! Skidded to a halt by the sign for lots of photos before crossing the road to the Old Toll Bar for a celebratory second breakfast.
Picked up a takeaway sandwich as well - we don’t like to risk going hungry - and pootled on our way. It was largely flat for a while so we made good time until we decided we probably ought to eat our chicken sandwiches before the sun heated them up to unsavoury temperatures. Found a lovely grassy spot in a place called Hodd Mains to while away 20 minutes near a castle gatehouse.
Southern Scotland is beautiful. Being a Sunday, people were busy with wholesome pursuits in the sunshine. Lots of DIY and exterior paint jobs going on. Particularly enjoyed the open day at Lochmabe bowls club. Wondering if that could be our next leisure activity of choice as we near the half century… Less associated bottom pain I’d imagine.
Day 8 - Cont'd...
The only official hill followed, but it was steady and gentle before a lovely descent into Moffat. It used to be a popular genteel spa town, and has the oldest Scottish pharmacy (1844). We like to share all the useful facts with you!
Our hotel, the Buccleuch Arms gets the prize for the most personable owners - and is certainly the most bike-friendly place we’ve ever stayed. Each room is allocated an external lock up for bikes (or motorbikes) and if we weren’t so lazy, we could have polished our steeds with the whole room of lotions and potions they have on hand.
There’s even both a pressure hose and a low pressure alternative - and many, many different brushes and cloths. Our bikes wouldn’t know what had hit them if we treated them so gloriously. Luckily, they have low expectations and were happy to be locked up whilst we showered and went in search of beer.
Today might have overtaken yesterday as Mills’ favourite and certainly the lack of hills made it a top contender for Sarah as well. Heading east tomorrow almost to Edinburgh. There’s a hill out of town for the first 10 miles but it shouldn’t be too bad otherwise. And the last 20 miles are mostly downhill. Fingers crossed the weather stays like this for us.
Day 7 - Saturday 18th May 2024
The weather gods shined on us today. Absolutely gorgeous - and both Lancashire and Cumbria are insanely beautiful and quiet. Mills has declared this her favourite day so far; Sarah, who is less partial to hills, remains unconvinced.
We left Garstang at 7am, like Paddington Bear, armed with marmalade sandwiches. We bypassed Lancaster and made quick progress to Caton where we picked up donuts for sustenance.
Had a big old climb up Halton Hill and made it to pretty Kirkby Longsdale for a cup of tea and a bacon bap from a roadside van by the 14th century Devil’s Bridge. Lots of leather-clad middle aged men on motorbikes also queueing up, all of whom eyed our wheels somewhat pityingly.
Day 7 - Saturday 18th May 2024
Lots of climbing from then on - it was an utterly beautiful route. Had fun weaving around sheep with stunning views from all directions. We stopped for water in Sedbergh which is a really pretty town.
Then more hills… Sarah’s legs were not impressed but Mills was a very happy camper, loving the lack of cars. There’s a random bit where the M6 splits in two and our route took us through the middle of it. Odd but cool.
Sadly didn’t get the chance to pop in to Tebay, the best motorway services, but we passed very close. The final big hill was up towards Shap and from there the topography was kinder with a couple of speedy downhills towards Penrith.
Day 7 - Saturday 18th May 2024
We’ve just been out for a pizza, where we spoke to two blokes doing LEJOG in ten days. Sounded very hard work!
Tomorrow, we’ll go through Carlisle at about 30km and then cross into Scotland at Gretna 20km further on. It’s far flatter tomorrow and a similar distance so should feel easier. Hopefully.
We’ve decided to treat ourselves to a lie in and breakfast at the hotel tomorrow as a result, so won’t leave till a leisurely 8am earliest. Fingers crossed the weather stays like this.
Day 6 - Friday 18th May 2024
After the luxury of our own beds last night, our clean, dry clothes were repacked and snacks replenished before Mills cycled down the road to Sarah’s for 6.15am. Back to Nantwich courtesy of Ben and set off bang on 7am.
The smugness was palpable. What a fabulous day for cycling. The sun came out and the route was lovely. We’d thought this might be a bit ugly and industrial, weaving through the likes of Winsford, Wigan and Preston but we spent much of the day alongside water: the River Weaver and the Wigan Flashes amongst various other canals. Swans, geese and ducks galore.
The only difficulty was the gates around Wigan which require some cunning manhandling of bikes to get through them. And there were lots of these to confuse our brains and slow us down. Had a cracking bacon bap in Wargrave where we spoke to a lovely lady whose son had done LEJOG last year but he was, allegedly ‘much older’ than us.
Day 6 - Cont'd...
People were definitely playing up to the friendly northerners stereotype today. Lots of random chats with jolly people. Got accused of being sisters three times. One man seemed to think we were lying when we denied it so maybe easiest just to say yes next time.
We’d made quick time this morning, thanks to good paths and a lack of uphills. Slowed down a bit with some juddery towpaths later on, including one very muddy couple of km with a fallen tree to jazz up proceedings. Luckily we’d had a leisurely lunch break with a sarnie and a very good icecream so were feeling up for the challenge.
The cycle paths around the towns were great, especially Preston where we took the Guild Wheel - a purpose built 21 mile shared use path around the city. Not the quickest way but definitely the prettiest.
Day 6 - Cont'd...
The last 20km, as usual, seemed a bit of an effort but wheeled into Garstang about 6.20pm.
Mills was treated to her first beef barm for supper. She felt it looked like overcooked school beef but Sarah has expertise in such delicacies and insisted it would be perfect once drowned in gravy. It was.
In bed for 8.30pm like the ravers we are. Just about to make some sarnies to take with us tomorrow morning as we’ll leave earlyish. Heading via Lancaster to Kirkby Lonsdale, then climb up to Shap (near Wet Sleddale for any Withnail fans). We end up in Penrith which we passed through just 3-4 weeks ago on our Coast to Coast training ride. It’s a mere 112km but some big hills to contend with. Looking forward to it.
Let's Do This Together
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